hunting rifle

All posts tagged hunting rifle

The Lightweight, Ultra-Portable Survival Rifle That’s Just 16 Inches Long

Image source: Henry Rifles

By Mike S. – Off The Grid News

A survival rifle is typically a minimalist rifle that can be broken down and stored in a vehicle, boat, aircraft or backpack and brought to use as a “last resort” firearm for taking wild game. As such, it is typically chambered in calibers like 22 LR, 22 Hornet or 410 shotgun. A typical survival rifle is not the ideal firearm for big-game hunting or home defense. This is something to have when you may need it most. One of the most popular designs was built by Armalite as the AR-7.

The concept of a survival rifle goes back to World War II. Pilots who were shot down but survived behind enemy lines were mostly lucky to have a revolver or maybe even an M1911A1. Those might be good for personal defense if you had to parachute into no-man’s land, but what if you had to bail out on a deserted island with no food prospects?

Continue reading at Off The Grid News: The Lightweight, Ultra-Portable Survival Rifle That’s Just 16 Inches Long

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Gun Cleaning Kit

By  SurvivoPedia

A gun is only safe in the right pair of hands, but safety means much more than good shooting at the right time. You must pay attention to what you’re doing when cleaning your guns, follow the proper procedures and, just as important, use the right tools!

Poorly manufactured tools can ruin parts of the gun and also wear out faster. If you are in a long term post-crisis situation, the wrong gun cleaning kit can be just as bad as none at all.

So, with that in mind, let’s take a look at the best tools on the market, based on my personal experience, not just a number of stars on Amazon.

What to Look for When Choosing Your Gun Cleaning Kit

When choosing a good quality cleaning kit for your firearms always buy the best quality tools that you can afford. If you just want to get a cleaning kit to be used only at home then purchase a universal multiple set. These cleaning sets usually come in a wooden or metal case and have a small diameter cleaning rod plus all the necessary cleaning tools for pistols, rifles and shotguns.

Continue reading at SurvivoPedia: How To Choose Your Gun Cleaning Kit

The Ruger Mini-14’s Biggest Problem -- And How To Fix It

Image source: thehighroad.org

By Kevin Danielsen Off The Grid News

It doesn’t get much more American than the old Ruger Ranch Rifle: the Mini-14. This tiny M1-style carbine weapon was designed to be amazingly rugged, especially considering how it was originally crafted for the whacking of sly coyotes on the open range.

In the days before amateur, high-precision shooting from the bench, gun consumers weren’t too concerned about these newfangled “MOA”-grouping things. Overall, folks in those days tended to be rather happy with their rifle, so long as they were able to nail one of mother’s pie plates at 75 yards off. So it was, in 1973, Ruger gave their loyal customers exactly what they wanted: a semi-auto, magazine-fed, piston-powered carbine rifle.

Continue reading at Off The Grid News: The Ruger Mini-14’s Biggest Problem — And How To Fix It

Image source: AR15goa.com

By  Rich M Off The Grid News

You’ve probably seen one of those ads selling a book about how to make a “ghost gun” at some point in time. What’s a ghost gun? It’s a gun that isn’t on the books anywhere. It’s not on the books because it was not manufactured by any licensed manufacturer. Therefore, the gun doesn’t have a serial number — and there’s no record of its sale.

This almost sounds illegal, but I assure you it’s not. I’m not talking about buying a gun that’s manufactured in a secret facility somewhere, where they don’t follow the law. Nor am I talking about buying a gun from which someone has removed the serial number. What I’m talking about is a perfectly legal way in which you can make your own gun, specifically an AR-15, which is one of the most popular guns on the market.

To understand this, you have to understand a little about firearms manufacturing law. According to the law, it is necessary to identify one part of the gun as actually being “the gun.” The rest of it is just parts. The reason for this is that the part which is identified as the gun receives the serial number. For most guns, the part that is so identified is the gun’s frame. In the case of the AR-15, that’s the lower receiver.

The serial number doesn’t legally have to be added to the gun frame (or lower receiver) until the gun is at least 80 percent completed

Continue reading at Off The Grid News: How To Make A Legal Off-The-Books AR-15

CamoPaintAR15

When I purchased my AR15, I never really considered painting it and I loved the nice black finish. Over the years though I have come to realize that this beautiful black rifle really sticks out in the woods or anywhere else for that matter. All black has a habit of doing that unless it is dark. I finally came to the conclusion that it only made sense for me to paint my AR15 after considering a number of factors. For starters, I wear camouflage when I am hunting to blend in with the surrounding trees, brush and vegetation, so why shouldn’t my rifle? Secondly, professional soldiers who are trying to blend in go to great lengths to camouflage their location so giving your rifle the same treatment only makes sense. Why spend so much time on getting into a nice hiding spot, possibly with a ghillie suit and not have your rifle dressed for the occasion?

I know why I hesitated in the first place. When you pay that much for something, the last thing on your mind is to take a can of spray paint to it. I started researching how to camo paint your AR15 probably 6 months ago and knew I would try this out on my rifle eventually, but I was still a little hesitant to pull the (spray can) trigger and change the stock color of my beautiful black rifle. Maybe one of the things in the back of my mind was that if I ever paint my rifle, I will never be able to sell it. I don’t know why I considered that a problem because as of right now, there is no way I am going to part with my rifle. You can read into that what you like but it is one thing to take into consideration if you are thinking about a camo paint job for your little rifle.

I went online and read a lot about the painting process which if you have ever spray painted anything is ridiculously simple. Krylon has a line of paint that is specifically made for camouflage. Their camo paint works great on Ceramic, Glass, Hard Vinyl Plastic, Wrought Iron, Wicker, Metal, Wood and Plaster. That covered all the bases I needed and the colors perfectly matched all the cammo patterns I would use. As an added bonus, they have good instructions on how to paint camouflage patterns and even provide the camouflage stencils you can download for your own paint job. The stencils look similar to the random designs you would see on multicam patterns. The great part is that this can be used on any weapon out there so if you want to camo paint your hunting rifle (something I plan to do) this paint and the stencils will be perfect.

Rustoleum makes camo paint colors too but I used the Krylon for my rifle.

How to camo paint your AR15

The first thing I did was to remove my sling, scope and light. The reason I removed the scope is that I just purchased it and I want to make sure it will work before I cover it in paint. That is one modification I am sure they wouldn’t take back. The scope is a Nikon P-223 that is designed specifically for the AR platform. I will be reviewing this scope in the future.

CamoAR1

Once I had the extras removed, I used painters tape to cover the magazine well, the trigger and the ejection port cover spring so that no paint would get in these areas. I am sure it would have been fine if I painted them, but I took the precaution just in case. Then as everything was wrapped up and ready, I hung the AR up and sprayed it down with brake cleaner. You can buy this at any auto store. The Krylon instructions said you didn’t need any primer but I wanted to make sure I removed the extra oils so the paint would adhere as well as possible. Once the rifle had been sprayed with the brake cleaner, I let it sit for about an hour to dry.

BaseCoat

The instructions from Krylon said to work your way from lightest to darkest color. I used three colors (Kahki, Olive and Brown) and I think these are a great match for this time of year and the vegetation we have around our home. The great thing about this camo paint job is that you can repaint the rifle when the seasons change or if you make a mistake. The Krylon went on beautifully and had a great smooth finish that covered nicely. I don’t even think I used a half can on the whole rifle and it looked so good I half considered just leaving it like this.

Camo stencils from nature.

I did consider cutting out the stencils from the Krylon site. I know there are sites that you can download the ACU digital patterns and cut these shapes up for stencils, but I wanted to try something more natural. And, I didn’t want to sit there with scissors all day… So I walked out into the yard and grabbed some various leaves, grass and sticks to use for my own natural stencils. This will work great regardless of where you live because your camouflage will match your local vegetation or it will in shapes anyway.

Place your stencils on the AR15 and overspray with a darker color.

This next part isn’t really scientific and you can’t do this the wrong way unless you spray too much paint I think. For my first stencil I laid a branch with some leaves on the main part of my lower receiver and sprayed with my Olive green. I then repositioned the leaves in other locations and used other elements like the grass to lay down different patterns. The Olive shapes lets the Khaki come through and begins to break up the shape of the AR15. Once I had a nice pattern on the first side I moved the the other side. After both sides had been painted, I started using the brown with these stencils to add additional camo pattern.

Finished product on side one.

The process is so easy and I was really pleased with the results. I plan to do the same thing to my Hunting rifle next since I have so much paint left. You can see the difference a little spray paint makes. In the winter if needed I can tone down the green and just just more Khaki and brown. This is a simple project that anyone can do for less than $20 and it only takes a few hours max from start to finish.

Before and after shot of the Camo paint job on my AR15.

 

The new paint job works well with the multicam pattern too I think and blends so much better now with the rest of my gear. It’s not perfect, but I think it is so much closer. This is a great project you can try with your rifles too. That is if you don’t plan on getting rid of them. You don’t do you?

 

CamoPaintAR15

This information has been made available by The Prepper Journal: How to Camo Paint Your AR15

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By Adam C

There is no question that Gene Stoner’s masterpiece design, the AR series rifle, is the most configurable weapon on the planet. Millions of copycat versions of this rifle exist in innumerable forms.

From 10” barreled pistol versions to 22” barreled match versions and everything in between, the AR series is the Lego of firearms. It’s a weapon that many build at home with simple hand tools; most anyone with rudimentary skills can successfully assemble an AR rifle.

There are some massive legal pitfalls in putting one of these rifles together, however, if you don’t have a basic understanding of federal law, specifically, the laws and regulations relating to National Firearms Act (NFA) weapons. Building AR series rifles is a fun and rewarding hobby, but the last thing you want is a stint in federal prison because you unknowingly build an illegal rifle. Remember – ignorance of the law is never an adequate defense. So let’s get started with some basic terminology:

Pistol: A handheld firearm that is designed to be fired by holding a small stock that protrudes under the bore, usually with one hand. Barrel length can be just about anything, which challenges the popularly conceived notion of what a pistol is.

Rifle: A shoulder fired, rifled barrel firearm with an overall length of 26” or greater, even when a folding or collapsible stock is retracted. Minimum barrel length is 16” from breech face to crown.

How to hide your guns, and other off grid caches…

Okay, so the above seems pretty clear – or so you would think. But like a late night commercial – wait – there’s more! You can absolutely run afoul of federal law with the slightest of modifications to the above definitions.

Here’s how to ensure you violate NFA law on an AR series rifle:

1. Butt Stock on a Pistol: So your shiny new AR pistol with a 10” barrel is a little bit of a handful. For whatever reason, the manufacturer shipped it with a foam cover over the buffer tube. But wait — that’s a normal buffer tube there…one that would easily accept a conventional AR butt stock. Guess what? As soon as you place a butt stock on that pistol, you just created an illegal short -barreled rifle. Why? Simply put, the pistol was designed to be fired with your hand, not from the shoulder. You changed its characteristics to turn it into a shoulder fired weapon with a short barrel, which, by the way is a controlled item that you need to register with ATF and pay a $200 tax stamp on.

2. Fore Grip on a Pistol: Although not on the law books per se, the ATF has ruled that placing a fore grip on a pistol creates a new class of weapon – an AOW (Any Other Weapon), which must also be registered and a fee paid. While it might seem tempting to mount a vertical fore grip to your AR pistol, and while technically the law is silent on this addition, the ATF still takes a dim view of it and in the end, even if you are right, you will have to endure an expensive trial to prove it.

3. Short Barrel on a Rifle: Let’s say that you own both an AR pistol and an AR rifle. Modularity and ease of configuration being what they are, you decide to pop the pins on both, and put the short barrel on the rifle. Of course, as stated before, you just illegally manufactured a short barreled rifle even if the barrel you used was perfectly legal on the pistol just moments ago. This concept is pretty obvious to most people, but there are subtler ways of entrapping yourself with barrel length.

Let’s say you are building an AR and you order a 14.5” rifle barrel and affix it to the AR rifle. You want a 14.5” barrel because that’s what the Army uses, and you want an M4 clone. This is still too short to stay legal, so you add a 1.5” flash hider to stay in the clear. Now you’re at 16” length. OK – right? Possibly not! The ATF requires that all flash hiders, to be counted as part of the overall barrel length, must be pinned and welded or brazed on in a permanent fashion. No using Loc-Tite or just a wrench — the flash hider must be permanent!

Building ARs is a fun hobby, and shooting them is even more fun, but just be aware of the legal ramifications when you build. Just because it snaps together perfectly, doesn’t mean it’s legal!

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This article first appeared at Off The Grid News: How Your Gun May Be Illegal And You Not Know It

 

Tactical two-point sling setup, extended.

By Road Warrior

So…be honest. All of you who have a primary (or even secondary or any redundant) long gun, have some sort of weapon retention system built onto your firearm? I’m talking slings here, folks, and they are as important to have on your long gun as a holster is for your handgun. Not only do they serve the same purpose as the holster, i.e keeping the long gun on your body in a manner that allows your hands to be free for other operations, but it serves other purposes. Firearm stabilization when shooting offhand and firearm storage when not on your person come to mind as being on the top of the list. There are literally hundreds of different designs and makes of long gun slings, but the majority fall into two types: single-point, and two-point. I’m going to separate the two-point design further into two types: the tactical sling and military/hunting sling. Let’s dig deeper.

Single-Point Sling

Single-point sling setup. Single-point sling setup.

The Single-point sling attaches to your long gun at one point, hence the name. It is generally a large loop that goes around your body, over one shoulder and under the other, with a bungee-type tether with a hook on the other end. The hook attaches to your rifle via a special point, usually behind a pistol grip so it will stay out of your way and ensure that it hangs muzzle-down when you let go of it. It’s a system that has been in use a while, but only has relatively recently come into popularity as the whole “operator” fad has started to become prevalent. It is a pretty useful system, especially for pump-action shotguns, because there isn’t a sling going forward to hinder your support arm from actuating a shotgun pump. It’s simple, easy to adapt a rifle or shotgun to, and it allows you to really just let go of the long gun if you have a malfunction, run out of ammo, etc., and transition to a secondary arm. it’s fast, and most higher-end single-point slings will have removable attachment points that you can leave set right up on the gun. You can then unbuckle the sling and snap it to another gun with an attachment point set up on it. It’s handy, they’re relatively inexpensive. Mine is a Specter Viper, which I got on Amazon for about $35.00. The Magpul ASAP Single-point sling adapter for an AR-15 is about $26, but you can get others for far less, in the $10 range. For my 870 shotgun, I use the GG&G attachment point, and it’s been very sturdy, even through rigorous training classes. The only real drawback to this system is that once you let go of the rifle, it’s relatively unsecured, and if you’re moving a lot or running, the gun slaps around and can get tangled in your feet or bang your shins. But if you’re in a secured area or not moving much, it’s a great setup.

Two-Point slings

Tactical two-point sling setup, extended. Tactical two-point sling setup, extended.

The what I’ll call “tactical” two-point sling (to differentiate it from the “field” sling) is a pretty slick rig. It’s far more specialized than the field sling setup, in that it uses a system of sliders and tensioners to allow you to lengthen or shorten the sling length with just a tug. You wear it in the same fasion as a single-point sling, i.e.with it slung over your weak-side shoulder, across your body, with the rifle resting on your strong side. It has two attachment points, usually on the side of or on the top of the rifle. This is so when you let go of the rifle, it stays oriented top-up…if you attach the points on the bottom, the rifle will lay over on its side or top-down, which is horrifically clumsy. Some two-point slings tie through slots in the rear stock and through the front sight tower of an AR-15, while others are set up like mine, with push-button quick detachable sling swivels in the side of the stock, and a rail-mounted swivel in the front, so you can take the sling off when not needed.

I have a Viking Tactics MK2 sling on my AR, and I friggin’ love it! It’s all set up so that when I pull the tensioner tab, the sling pulls out to the perfect length for me to get it out and shoot, but if I’m on the move or need my hands free, I can pull the tightening tab and the gun snugs right up to my body.

Two-point sling setup, retracted. Two-point sling setup, retracted.

It’s a great system, and very intuitive once you get used to it. I find it’s great to use snowshoeing with a pack, because you can secure the rifle tightly to your body, and it doesn’t slip off if it gets caught on a tree branch or if you lose your balance, yet if a coyote pops up, it’s very quick to put into ready action. The sling was about $45, and worth every penny, with the push-button sling swivel for the rear stock about $4, and the HK clip and Magpul RSA rail mount for the front running me about $25 at my local gun shop. I have to say, this is how the rifle stays 99% of the time; the single point setup doesn’t really get used on my rifle, but that’s my preference. In the pictures, it doesn’t look like the sling retracts much, but it’s all the difference in the world between the two settings. Some two-point slings don’t have the sliding setup, but I prefer the ones that do.

Field Sling

Leather field sling on my Winchester 52 Sporter. Leather field sling on my Winchester 52 Sporter.

This is the type that most people are familiar with; it’s the leather or nylon sling that everyone takes afield with them when they go hunting and don’t want to keep a rifle in their hands all the time. They’re time-tested, battle-tested, and still the most practical addition anyone can make to their long gun. They can be adjusted to any useful length, and most long guns come right from the factory ready to go for a sling. If your rifle doesn’t have a sling setup, Uncle Mike‘s has a kit to adapt your rifle to take one.

These slings can also be used to help you shoot better. I don’t have another person here to help me take pictures, but this article I found online shows the techniques very well. Check it out and try it, you’ll be surprised how well it can work.

Anyone out there use a different setup, or tried out different DIY methods to retain your rifle? What do you think of all this jazz? Shout it out below!

Stay safe!-TRW

This article first appeared at SHTF Blog: Single-point vs. Two-point slings