Knives

All posts tagged Knives

BIG-homemade-knives

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In this day and age, making your own tools and weapons may seem an anachronism and also pretty inadequate. There are knives made from high-tech materials available everywhere, and plenty of models to choose from. Regardless of your need or your preference, there’s a knife ou there to suit your needs.

What happens, though, if society collapses and there are no longer superstores from which to purchase any knives? This theory applies to absolutely everything, including tools, weapons, food, and even clothes. We are living in modern times; everything is just a click away or a phone call away, but that can change in the blink of an eye.

Suppose that you are facing a life and death situation. Maybe the sun won’t shine tomorrow, or you’ll get lost in the woods, or your plane will crash, many scenarios are possible in which you will need a knife but won’t have one. When you’re in the wild, a knife will be your best friend; it could literally be the difference between life and death.

If you like knives like I do, you may be interested in a crash course on “how to make your own knife”. I bet you’ve asked yourself at least once (I surely did) how a knife is made. Making your own knife is like the ultimate level when it comes to survival. So, if you’re forced to make your own blade, to protect and to serve you, what would you do? Where would you start from?

What to Use

3obsknves2Modern knives are made of various qualities of steel or other alloys, plastic or various composite materials. When you’re lost in the wilderness, it would seem improbable for you to have access to cutting tools, hammers, forges and other tools and equipment necessary for forging metals. so a regular “made of steel” knife is out of the question.

That’s okay though, because the first knives were made in an era in which iron was not even discovered yet. There are certainly other ways to get the job done. The first knives are dated from the Stone Age, and they were made out of stone by our crafty ancestors.

Making a knife out of stone is not very hard at all. Practically anybody, with a little bit of practice, can build himself a cool knife by flint knapping, just like the prehistoric men did.

Flint knapping (the process of shaping stone into a tool or weapon) can be done using hammerrock tools as well as wood and bone to refine them. Obsidian, flint, and chert are common stones used in knife-making.

In theory, it’s a simple process: find a piece of rock that has the desired dimensions and hammer it with another rock until you give it a “knife like” shape. After that you must flake off the end of the “blade” to make it sharp and affix a handle on the other end and voila! That’s about it.

It only takes a few rocks and some mad skills (that you’ll acquire with practice) to make yourself a cool looking, functional knife.

What to Do

Now, here are the basic steps you need to follow when making your own knife:

1. Find your raw materials. Native Americans were experts in obsidian and flint knapping, primily because it’s readily available in many places and both are good materials for knives. As a beginner, flint is probably your best option. Both rocks are very hard and tough, they cut well and yet they’re pretty easy to carve and to bring them to the desired shape. The bigger the initial rock, the larger the blade will be.

Geology rocks folks! Knowing which rock is what when it comes to stones could prove very useful in a survival situation, so get your facts straight and learn how to distinguish between different types of rock. For example, obsidian looks like black glass, because it’s actually solidified magma, and it’s pretty hard to find. Flint on the other hand is more common. As a general rule of thumb, creeks are abundant in high quality rocks for making blades, so that’s where you should take a look first.

2. Find yourself a hammerstone, which is actually a medium sized rock that you will be using for striking off the blades. The hammer stone should be as closed to a spherical shape as possible.

3. Use the hammer stone to strike the edge of the rock (the future knife) and if you strike well, the force of the strike will shatter the bottom of the rock, creating a blade like profile. It’s hard to explain; all you need is practice.

4. Be careful when hitting the rock. Rock shrapnel may hurt your eyes. Also avoid hitting your fingers. Don’t hit too hard; go nice and easy and have patience at all times.

5. Use a piece of wood or your hammerrock to polish the blade til it’s sharp.

6. After the job’s done, you’ll have to add a handle to the sharp flint blade. You can use a piece of wood for that, affixed with wire or something improvised from your own clothes.

Don’t worry, if our ancestors could do it, so can we. All it takes is practice and patience.

Good luck!

This article first appeared at Survivopedia: DIY Knives for Off-Grid Survival

Find out more about cold weapons on Bulletproof Home.

Photo sources: 1, 2.

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Axe_and_knife

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Preppers are ever and always debating which tool or tools are best for various situations, and the arguments surrounding survival knives and axes are no exception. Although each tool has their finer points and uses that the other doesn’t match making them an excellent matched pair of tools, when the time comes you may need to select one or the other for your pack or stockpile. In that case, which one should be included? We’re going to look at the strengths and weaknesses of each tool, both knife and axe, to determine which will be most useful for you.

What is a “Survival” knife or axe?

Although there are plenty of fine knives and axes available on the market, only a small subset of them are truly suitable to be called “survival” axes or knives. Generally speaking, a true survival tool has these qualities:

A small hatchet like this is much easier to carry than a big splitting maul.

  • Able to be carried long distances. A big splitting maul may technically qualify as an axe, but it is hardly a survival tool since it is much too heavy! This criteria is generally applied only to axes, since even heavy knives are plenty light for a person to carry. The best kinds of axes tend to resemble hatchets, being small enough for easy packing and light weight yet still substantial enough to take serious punishment.
  • Durable. This is where many knives tend to fail. Although there are definitely uses for cheap pocket knives and the like in emergency situations, a true survival knife needs to be made of sterner stuff. Although axes will generally do better when subjected to a durability test, there is still a need to cull the cheap big box store brands made with low-quality steel. Both knives and axes need to be able to handle chopping wood, sharpening stakes, potential self-defense against people and animals, and the occasional accidental strike against rocks or soil over a long period of time.You need knife and axe blades made of metal which is worth sharpening after hard use.
  • Able to be repaired/sharpened. The axe or knife needs steel of sufficient quality to be sharpened properly over the course of time. Ideally, a good survive knife blade or axehead will have a removable grips/handle in case they become damaged over time.
  • Versatile in function. Some knives are designed primarily for combat or other uses and have special features that allow them to do this job better. Likewise, there are many axes designed primarily for carpentry work or only for splitting big thick logs. A survival tool needs to be a jack of all trades, not specifically good at any one thing but decent at a wide variety of common tasks. Lopping off limbs for a lean-to, skinning small game, splitting small logs, cutting through ice, and cutting notches for traps and snares are but a few of the many jobs your survival axe or knife will need to perform.

The strengths and weaknesses of survival knives

A serrated edge can be useful in certain situations, giving knifes a unique advantage over axes.

On the other hand, a survival knife’s performance can suffer when it comes to the larger jobs. If you should need to split small logs or lop limbs off of trees, you may find that although the knife can do the job it’s not nearly as easy as it would be with an axe. A particular area of weakness is in cutting limbs of the proper size for a shelter. Unless you have softer wood to craft into poles, you may find it difficult to get clean cuts through the limbs that are ideal for lean-to poles. Knives are also more difficult to keep properly sharpened in some cases, although with practice this issue is significantly diminished.

The pros and cons of a survival axe

Using an axe, you'll have a much easier time cutting through logs and limbs.

However, axes do have some weaknesses to put against their strengths. For one thing, almost any axe is going to be larger and heavier than a survival knife and will reduce the overall amount of supplies you can carry. Furthermore, they’re also more awkward to use when trying to make delicate or tiny cuts such as those needed for cleaning an animal or preparing snares. They also lack additional features like serrated edges or a convenient folding action that covers the blade, meaning that they’re more limited in many ways. Furthermore, they’re also more dangerous to use as a single slipup can result in a deep and deadly wound to an arm or leg.

So, which to use?

The truth is, both have their uses depending on your situation. If you need to carry a lot of other heavy gear, a knife would probably suit you better than a weighty axe. If you are going into damp places where you’ll have to cut dry limbs off of trees instead of harvesting dry wood on the ground, an axe will make your work go faster. If you’ll be cutting ropes for snares and skinning the game you catch, a knife will make the work simpler than a big axeblade. It comes down to what you personally need: the smaller, lighter finesse of a survival knife or the thicker, heavier, blunt work of the survival axe. Choose wisely! – Prepared For That

Your thoughts?

Which suits you better? Would you carry both if you had the choice? Let us know in the comments!

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Trench_knifeOne thing that is difficult to argue with, is the importance of a decent cutting tool. A good knife is a flexible tool that can be used for nearly anything. However, with how many different kinds of knives there are, it can be difficult to select one for the proper uses. This article is to take some of the mystery out of the variety, and teach basic knife care. While it will not be as in depth as some solid time researching the subject, it will hopefully make a quick and easy reference guide to the casual knife shopper, and owner. We have more tips and tricks over at Outlive the Outbreak.

Step 1: Why You Want a Knife

Whether you want to survive the urban jungle, or go out into the woods, a knife can give anyone a little extra boost of confidence. To go out into the wilderness and have a knife gives you the ability to clean and dress any game you capture, strip bark or other flora to make cordage or baskets, cut cordage to make snares or rig shelters, shape sticks to create new tools or just extend your reach. In addition to what you can do with the knife itself, there are tools you can use with a knife such as fire strikers, or things like compasses that can be sculpted into the knife itself. Even if the most dangerous part of the day is getting out of bed, a decent knife can come in handy for the littlest of things like opening mail. There may be some fancy pieces of equipment out there, but it is still possible to make a lot out of a little with a just basic pocket knife.

Step 2: Know Your Knife

There is a near endless assortment of knives. They can be built for survival, or designed by a fantasy artist, and everything between with even more past the extremes. If that wasn’t enough there is an almost infinite combination of alloys that the blades are sculpted from. So with so much variety, where does one even begin?

The Steel: Where the different compositions of each alloy will vary between almost any producer, there are a few that are more common, or a couple of phrases that would be helpful to recognize when you’re making a selection.

420 Stainless Steel: This will be one of the most common compositions of metal used in knife making. It offers good resistance to rusting but tends to be a few shades softer than other metals on the market. This does not mean it is bad, however it won’t hold its edge as well as some other blades.

440 Stainless Steel: This will be a step up from the 420. It still has the high corrosion resistance, but will generally hold its edge better.

Carbon Steel: Carbon steel is a vague term. There are numerous grades encompassed by that simple phrase, but they share a few common threads. A carbon steel blade will not be as resistant to rusting, and will need to be watched more carefully. They may take a little more maintenance, but overall will be a harder blade and will not need to be sharpened as often.

Unrated: While it is possible that the knife could be homemade, it is generally a good practice to avoid a knife that doesn’t list its grading. If it only says Pakistan, or China, or some such on the blade, but will not even proclaim a basic 420 steel it may not even be rated. Knives like this have a tendency to lose their edge quickly and bend without returning to their original shape.Elasticity in a blade is desirable, a knife that can flex but will return to its original shape on its own is an extremely high quality, most knives are rigid and won’t flex, but be wary of knives that will bend without going back.

Damascus: The blade featured in the picture is one of the most distinctive blends of metal. Known as Damascus Steel, its comprised of metals with different carbon content being folded together. Its widely valued both for its signature appearance, and the fact that the different metals together offer it a blend of flexibility and hardness. Good Damascus is notoriously expensive, and while high quality can be prone to having the different layers begin to flake with prolonged use if it isn’t taken care of.

Step 3: The Importance of Shape

There are multiple phrases used to describe different kinds of knives. As always the lingo may vary and not be terribly helpful, but there are a few different pieces of the knife to consider. Is the blade folding or fixed, and what is the shape of the belly, being the cutting edge, in relation to the point.

For example, take the knife that won the west, the famous, or perhaps infamous Bowie. First and foremost it is a fixed blade, meaning that it doesn’t feature a mechanism that closes it. It has to be kept in a sheath to hide its edge and has a much larger profile, making any fixed blade a poor choice for say, an every day pocket knife. The blade is relatively straight but curves upwards, meeting a section removed from the back of the blade to give the Bowie a finer point. The Bowie is a fine example of a knife that was as much tool as weapon being rather heavy and sturdy, but still having a sharp straight blade, with a narrower tip for stabbing.

There is another variety of knives called skinners. Skinners are used namely to remove the hide and clean game, making them a good friend for anyone who would go hunting or is just trying to catch their own food. They can be fixed or folding which offers a choice between the stability of a fixed blade, or something more compact to put in a pocket or backpack. The blade will generally be shorter, and have more curve to it, and the back of the blade will be straighter and have the cutting edge slop upward to it. This will reduce the knife’s penetrating power, making it less likely to poke holes in the subject. Some skinners will also come with a “gut hook” which will be a ground down portion on the back of the blade, with a cutting edge that does not feature a point. These are helpful when a hunter is trying to not pierce the stomach or organs which would risk fouling some of the meat.

Now those are only two specific designs. There are variations there of within their own names, not to mention countless varieties besides. The most important thing to ask when looking at purchasing a knife is, “What will this be used for?”. Is it for splitting logs and pretending you’re Rambo in the jungle? By all means use the heavy handed Bowie knife and find a ridiculously large, serrated, and mean looking version there of. Is it to open bottles of both cap and cork variety, while still being able to clip loose threads and still have a sharp little blade to open mail or boxes? Then perhaps the multifaceted Swiss Army Knife variety would be more appealing. A knife is a very personal thing, and a good knife over time could take on a legacy of its own.

Step 4: Caring For a Knife

As with every relationship of give and take, a knife can take care of you, only if you take care of it. The two basic needs of caring for a knife are cleanliness, and sharpening. This does not mean that a knife needs to be sharpened after every use or that a knife cannot get dirty.

Keeping a knife clean may sound simple enough in theory, but that depends entirely on what kind of knife it is, what it gets used for, its age, or any number of things. When cleaning a knife, avoid fully submerging it in water. Water can get into places that can’t be reached easily and begin to form rust. Also if the knife has a wooden handle, or wooden inlays, the wood could swell and warp if it soaks for too long. A soft cloth or a stiff brush with soap and water should be enough for most cleaning. If a knife is beginning to develop rust, a chemical cleaner or light abrasive like steel wool may be in order. Always avoid things like sandpaper or wire brushes, as they could scratch the surface of a blade and create stress points or give rust a place to begin forming. A clean polished surface will be more resistant to corrosion, and make the entire length of steel stronger overall.

Sharpening a knife can take a bit of practice, although there are products that do make easier work of it. Many companies produce stones set at predetermined angles so the blade only needs to be run between them. That is the easy way, but many people still use flat sharpening stones, both for their availability, and the control they offer. If you want to sharpen a knife on a whet stone, the key thing to remember is patience. A basic rundown of sharpening goes as follows.

Most whetstones will come in sets of two, featuring a rough stone, and a fine stone. The rough stone is used primarily to set the angle of the blade, as well as work out any nicks or chips in the edge. This is the stone to use first. Apply a lubricant to the surface, this can be water but mineral oil is a very popular choice, and set the flat of the blade at a 10 to 15 degree angle. Some kits will come with a plastic wedge to help guide the angle, but it isn’t a requirement. The idea of keeping it in that zone will allow the blade to still be sharp and preform as needed, without the angle being so fine that it becomes more likely to chip or break. Patience is key. Try to make steady, consistent strokes, moving the entire length of the blade over the stone with the edge leading and grinding down towards the body of the blade. This makes it less likely to warp or roll the “truth” of the blade, being how consistent and straight the cutting edge is. After the edge is satisfactory, use the finer stone in much the same way. The difference isn’t so much that the finer stone will put a finer edge on the knife, but rather will polish the section ground down by the rougher stone. This will remove small scratches and fissures in the knife surface that would develop into stress points, and harbor moisture for rust and corrosion.

Step 5: More Than a Knife

A knife can be a useful tool on its own, but it works well with other tools, especially in a situation where one may not have all of the necessary equipment.

A big mention are fire steels. These tools have become one of the staples for campers and backpackers. While it may not be as easy and convenient as matches or a lighter, they offer an additional source of sparks that does not require fuel and will work when wet. Furthermore, most of them will come with a nice flat piece of metal, that can easily be replaced with the back edge of almost any knife.

Multi-tools are another variety of knife that are extremely popular. In addition to having an all purpose blade, a multi-tool will combine other useful tools ranging from saws and screwdrivers to tweezers and toothpicks. The trade off with multi-tools is that they will not be as streamlined or well behaved as a tool specifically designed for the task, but they have a multitude of tools readily available at any given time, where it would otherwise be necessary to carry a toolbox.

Step 6: Always Remember To Be Safe

Earlier I said that knives can offer confidence. This is not to induce a false sense of security in carrying one. A knife is a dangerous tool and needs to be treated with respect at all times. To carry one automatically imposes responsibility: to know what is legal in regards to carrying a knife, what is safe in how to use and care for it, and to know when you should and should not draw it. Some people will play with knives, and I am as guilty of that as anyone, but if you take it out at a place with no weapon policies, such as a school, there could be very serious implications, even if no harm was intended. Accepting the responsibility of owning a knife, and living up to it, are two easy things that anyone can do, and be better off for it. So always remember to be safe, and enjoy being the proud owner of your choice in cutlery. – Outlive The Outbreak

Resources:

How to Find the Best Survival Knife

By P. Henry

I like knives. Actually, there aren’t many knives out there that I can’t respect on a certain level for their utility and in some cases beauty. Knives come in all shapes and sizes and have various compositions and specialties. They have different configurations and nomenclature and if you take a look around carefully you will see a high percentage of guys carry at least one clipped to a pocket. I must not like them as much as some people though because I don’t have that many of them.

Apparently I am an oddball too because if you run the circles of preparedness websites there are thousands of knife reviews and commentary. You can look at EDC pictures and there is always a knife or five in there. Bug Out bags will sometimes have two or three knives hanging off of them along with the machete, hatchet and the small key chain knife/flashlight combo. I started thinking the other day about all of this as I walked the aisles at a gun show I was visiting. Second only to guns are knife displays and they are well represented. I usually stop and glance at every table unless they are selling something like pet brushes that get all of the hair off with one whisk of the brush or ladies handbags or salsa. Not that there is anything wrong with selling any of those items, it’s just that when I am at a gun show, I expect guns; not cat grooming. although my cat does need a serious brushing though now that I think about it.

Gerber LMK II - Great knife for the price.

Gerber LMK II – Great knife for the price.

There are long tables of knifes in every color and dimension. I stopped and checked out an old M9 bayonet at one of the first tables and felt the big tug of nostalgia. I had an M9 that I bought myself. We weren’t issued those in the Army but I spent my own money on one and sharpened it frequently. Up until I mistakenly left my gear unsecured and my platoon sergeant took it to “teach me a lesson”. I never saw that knife again and I have always hoped that some form of justice was visited on him later in life. Seeing that old knife brought back some of those memories and I thought for just a minute about getting one again. I know that if I picked one up now my platoon sergeant wouldn’t take this one but after a long 3 seconds I thought better of it and placed it back on the table. I already have a nice Gerber LMF II that I got a few years back that is about the same size and suits me just fine.

I have talked about my Spyderco Tenacious that is part of my EDC and I love that knife but I have been looking for a backup in case I lose that one. The backup is really just an excuse to buy one for my daughter who has bugging me for a “real knife” for a while. The Spyderco knife I have is wonderful, very reasonably priced at around $38 and I would love

Spyderco Tenacious G10 - My everyday carry knife.

Spyderco Tenacious G10 – My everyday carry knife.

to have another one. For some reason, Spyderco knives are poorly represented at the gun shows I visit, but this time there was a woman who had several of them in her case next to the Kershaw and Benchmade folders so I was excited for the opportunity to purchase another one. Looking at her prices they were about $20 too high so I walked on again. Was there something wrong with me? Why wasn’t I buying any knives? The guys on YouTube all seem to have dozens each!

It occurred to me that maybe the reason why I can’t bring myself to actually purchase a new knife is that I have a few already that I feel more than meet the needs for anything I can think of. The simple fact is that I don’t think I need any other knives. I know there are people who collect knives so this is not directed at you but for the average person looking; how many knives do you need? Before I deal with the issue of quantity, let’s talk about how to find the best Survival knife for your purposes.

What will you use your knife for?

First we should talk about what you need a knife for. The answer to that is simple, isn’t it? Knives have a million and one uses. From cutting shavings off a stick to make tinder for a fire to cutting paracord or other cordage to lash your survival shelter together, you just can’t really match the utility of a good knife. Most days my knives only see action opening packages that my wife gets from Amazon, but frequently my trusty knife is called to do some really serious work like whittling sharp points on sticks for my kids’ marshmallows over the fire or opening up something sealed in plastic like that new coat hook my wife wanted me to hang last weekend. All kidding aside, knives are extremely useful tools and no self-respecting Prepper would be caught without one. A sharp instrument and the knowledge of how to use it are one thing separating us from animals, right?

OK, so a knife is useful that we can say without question. It is smart to always have a knife on you because you never know what you might need it for and when. This means you ladies too. There is no reason you shouldn’t carry a knife in your purse and it could even save your life if you didn’t have any other means of self defense.

What to look for when selecting the best Survival knife

Blade Shape – There are a lot of different blade shapes and each was designed for different tasks. Similar to how each of those knives in that big block you have sitting in the kitchen have a different strong suit, the blade shape of your knife will determine what it is best for. Some shapes are designed to take the impact of a rock or stick on the backside so you can use the knife as an axe.

SOG Seal Pup - Great knife and reasonably priced.

SOG Seal Pup – Great knife and reasonably priced.

Blade Steel – There are dozens of different types of blade steel out there and probably millions of opinions on which is best for your knife. The steel is made up of varying amounts of carbon and iron but there are other alternatives out there like ceramic knives. Each different type has their benefits but it largely comes down to strength and hardness. A harder knife holds an edge better, but if your knife is too hard, it will be less tough; which means if you hit or drop the blade it could break. For a great list of blade composition types you can read this post on the Blade HQ site.

Serrated Edge – Serrated edges have their uses and I would recommend having some of the blade serrated. You can use this to cut through cordage like your thousands of feet of paracord or even bone if needed. The edges can be re-sharpened if you have the right sharpening stone.

Full tang – For the strongest knife you want a blade that extends all of the way to the end of the knife. This is called “full tang” and simply means that the knife is one single piece of metal. This is going to be far stronger than a folding knife and less prone to breaking when you need it.

Handle – You want a knife that feels good in your hands and the surface needs to be conducive to a good grip. You don’t want a knife that will easily slip through your fingers if it is wet. For this reason I would recommend that you always try out the knife you want to buy in person. You need to physically see how it feels in your hand. Is it too large or too small? Do the finger grooves fit you nicely?

What knives should you avoid?

If you grew up in the 80’s you probably witnessed some of the Rambo phenomenon. Rambo’s knife was a beast. I think it was something like 14” long and you could saw down a tree with it. There was a group of knives that came out after this movie that had a survival kit inside the knife so that when you unscrewed the cap on the end of the handle (which also happened to have a compass) you got fish hooks and matches and various little items similar to what you see people pack inside a Survival tin. The knives were very poorly made and would fall apart quickly. That of course didn’t stop me and my teenage self from wanting one very badly.

A knife shouldn’t be complicated but it should be well built. Don’t buy a gimmicky knife trying to cut corners. You should buy a great knife at a decent price and let it do its job. Save the matches and fishhooks for your Bug out Bag.

How many knives do you need?

The million dollar question is how many knives do you need? For me personally, I look at this in a few different ways and again, I am not talking to the collector. If you just love knives then by all means go out and buy as many as you want. For the average Joe, I would start with a great folding knife that you can carry with you every day. This should be part of your EDC and it should be something you are never without.

Ka Bar knife has been proven tough for over 50 years.

Ka Bar knife has been proven tough for over 50 years.

I have two knives that I carry on me every day in most cases only because my Leatherman has a knife too. Could I get by with only one knife? Of course, but I have options. So that’s two knives I own now. What about when it isn’t the easiest or best idea to carry my larger folder? Let’s say I am dressed up for work or a funeral, what would I carry then? They make the smaller Leatherman Juice just for this purpose that fit nicely in your pocket and don’t require their own holster. Ok, that’s three knives so far.

Lastly I have my big knife. For me, this is my Gerber LMF II that is big and sturdy enough for any post-apocolyptic needs I might have from chopping wood for a fire (yes, you can do that with a knife) to stabbing zombies in the head. I almost never carry this around because it is so large that you can’t stick it in your pocket obviously. Would I have this strapped to my side if the SHTF? Yes I would. If I am going anywhere up to and even camping in the woods, my little folder is just the right size and weight. I could buy another medium sized knife like a K-Bar or a SOG Seal pup, but I think I am ok with the folder and the leatherman. Your mileage may vary.

For each member of my family, we have a multi-tool and each person has a folder. Eventually everyone will also have a full-sized devoted survival knife but that is really all I can ever see needing. Sure, I could point to the two is one and one is none rule to say we should all have 4 each, but that seems like overkill. Besides, I still like wandering the aisles at the gun shows and who knows. I may still find that elusive perfect knife that I have to have.

So, how many knives do you have and what do you carry with you. – The Prepper Journal

Trident Mini-Partially Serrated, BlackTiNi – Boxed

The SOG Trident Mini uses our well-proven means of delivering a knife blade to the open position with S.A.T. (SOG Assisted Technology™) Now using our patent pending Arc-Actuator™, the Trident Mini locks stronger and releases easier. There is also a built-in safety to lock the blade closed. When it shows red, you are ready to go.

What also makes the Trident Mini so unique is the patent pending Groove™ in the handle, which allows the operator to cut paracord, fishing line, etc. without having to open the blade. The handle also includes a Digi-Grip™ variable pattern for coarser grip in areas that require it. Our bayonet style clip is easily switched for right/left hand carry or removed for pouch storage

Features:
– AUS-8 steel
– Black TiNi finish
– GRN handle

Specifications:
– Blade Length: 3.15”
– Overall Length: 7.18”
– Weight: 2.25 oz.

Down behind enemy lines? Left to fend for yourself? These are the scenarios that inspired the LMF II. Former military man, Jeff Freeman led the charge to engineer this fearless new 10″ survival knife. And we field-tested with the troops.

This knife is as adaptable as the personnel who carry it. Use it to cut through the skin of a fuselage. Or sever a seat belt. Or egress through the Plexiglas of a chopper. Plus, the LMF II does a slick job cutting firewood and building shelter.

The over-molded handle successfully limits blistering. There is complete separation between the tang and butt cap, so the knife absorbs the shocks from hammering and prevents the shocks of electricity. Smartly situated grooves and lashing holes let the LMF II convert to a spear. The low-profile sheath facilitates movement, limits noise, works for parachuting, and attaches to a belt or Molle vest. The patented, integrated sharpener means edge retention in the field.

Features:
– Rugged, versatile survival tool

– Safety knife included

– Low-profile sheath with built-in sharpener

Specifications:

– Overall Length: 10.59″

– Blade Length: 4.84″

– Weight: 11.4 oz.

– Blade Style: Drop Point

– Blade Material: 420HC Stainless

– Blade Type: Serrated

– Handle Material Glass-filled nylon with TPV overmold

– Sheath Material: Ballistic nylon with fire retardant coating

Manufactured by: Gerber Blades